5 GO FISHING
5 keen freshwater fly anglers went to Cayo largo in early November for our first taste of salt water fly fishing; it could not have been any better.
The first night was spent (drinking) in the excellent Parque Central hotel in Havana, well, we did arrive late evening and there was not much else to do. An early breakfast 4.00am! followed by transfer to a small airport for the short flight to Cayo largo. We were met at Cayo Largo airport by Mauro – the head fishing guide, and within 30 mins were we at the hotel, checked in and having our second breakfast of the day, it was still only 9.30.
At 4.00pm we were collected from the hotel reception and driven by bus to the fishing lodge where we met our guides for the week. After some instruction on how to cast to fish, set hooks in salt water, how to ‘behave’ on the boats and general information, we went outside and the guides set up our rods ready for the following day. Preferences for drinks on the boat were also taken, water, beer, soft drinks. We left the tackle at the lodge and departed with an empty ‘butty box’ each.
The following morning it was breakfast at 7.30, and the afor mentioned ‘butty box’ was filled with breakfast food that would become our lunch later in the day. The hotel also supplied a large bottle of water and a can of soft drink each. The bus was ready every day at 8.00 and 10 anglers (there was also a party of 2 and a party of 3 fishing as well) with tackle food and drink squashed in for the 5 min trip. On arrival at the lodge our requested drinks were collected, and within 5 mins the tackle was on the boat, the food and drink were stowed in the ice box and we were motoring to the first fishing area.
As there was 5 of us fishing, it was 2 boats of 2 and 1 angler on his own. The guides would have preferred to spend the whole week with their anglers so that they got to know how we fished, but we rotated around so everyone fished on their own, and we fished with different guides.
At the start of each session, if the guide was new to us, we would be asked to make a long cast. This was to assess how close they would need to get us to the fish. Lunch was around 12.30 to 1.00. The guides are in radio contact with each other and a rendezvous on a beach would be arranged. It was time to catch up with the other 2 boats and swap stories.
At Cayo Largo there are 6 fishing zones, all with slightly different habitats and feel to them. On day 1 we fished zone 3 with our 3 boats, and the other 3 boats fished zone 4. Zones 3 and 4 are the closest to the lodge and it takes about 10 mins to arrive, before the engine is cut and the guide starts to pole the boat along the salt flats. Zone 6, which we fished on the second day is the largest zone (25sq miles) and takes 1 hour to get to. This zone has probably the most variation within it. Fishing ended every day at 5.00: that is we were back at the lodge for that time, so actual fishing ended dependent on how far away from the lodge we were. The ride back became our beer time. At the lodge scores were entered by Mauro on the master scoreboard and beer and pizza were served. The guides would clean the salt water off the rods and reels, and by 5.30 we were back on the bus to the Sol Melia with a clean empty butty box.
The following afternoon we transferred to the Cayo largo airport for the flight to Havana. More alcohol in the Parque Central at night, but a more leisurely breakfast the following morning. We spent the day ‘till we were picked up at 5.20 wandering round Havana old town and visited the Museum of the Revolution.
I have deliberately not mentioned the actual fishing. What I will say is that it was brilliant. Imagine how good you think it might be and treble it. That’s not to say it was easy, we all caught 20 odd bonefish, most caught tarpon, all had chances at permit but none were even hooked never mind landed. On some days the bonefish were very obliging, taking every fly offered to them, but on other days just the first false cast would spook them, as the guides say “that’s fishing.”
Most of the fishing was done from the foredeck of the skiffs, but when conditions allowed we waded into the knee deep water.
The weather played a part, we started the week with superb sunny days which made fish spotting easy for the guides, by the end of the week it clouded over and the wind was in the wrong direction making spotting more difficult. The guides speak Spanish, but swear fluently in English! Re the fish spotting. For the first 2 days or so we would cast to fish that the guides had spotted, but I personally could not see. By mid week, when the guide said “bonefish at 2 o’clock 15 metres” I would look and see it/them quite quickly. By the end of the week we were seeing the occasional fish before/at the same time as the guide. Good glasses are essential!
A big thank you to Fly Odyssey for his advice and organisation, and to Sean Clarke from Farlow's who was one of the other anglers in the lodge that week. Sean was there ‘on holiday’ but we met up every breakfast, dinner and most of the night, and his advice and tips were invaluable.
FOR MORE INFORMATION ON FLY FISHING CAYO LARGO OR TO JOIN ONE OF OUR 2013 GROUP TRIPS PLEASE CALL US ON +44 (0)1621743711 OR EMAIL ENQUIRIES@FLYODYSSEY.CO.UK
